Martin Cate assembled over five hundred rums spanning three centuries of distillation history inside a retro-tropical Hayes Valley space that won the Spirited Award in 2016 and continues to operate at the pinnacle of American tiki. Seventy-five cocktails and counting, each built with the kind of sourcing obsessiveness that Cate—a cocktail historian whose book Smuggler's Cove became the definitive tiki reference—brings to every decision. General Manager Christopher Ward keeps the operation running at a level that justifies the word "destination." No rum bar in the country runs deeper.