Carlo Splendorini builds cocktails around a Negroni programme that has cycled through fifty variations since opening in November 2022, keeping five on the menu at any given time. The Tutto Fumo—Parmigiano-Reggiano rind-washed mezcal, apricot, Calabrian chilies, honey, lemon, and frothy egg whites—captures the Martin Brudnizki-designed room's Venetian ethos: serious ingredients, generous portions, no severity. Two-storey windows and furnishings imported directly from Venice create a cicchetti-and-cocktails experience that transports without pretending San Francisco is anything other than itself.