One or Two

Melbourne, Australia

Twenty-six seats of wabi-sabi calm in an 1895 heritage building on Chinatown's Celestial Avenue, One or Two draws its spirit from the Japanese series Midnight Diner, natural wood, monotones, and founder Andy Chu's philosophy of quality over quantity across whisky, cocktails, sake and seasonal wines. The house lager is $12; the 'All-Time' classics run $26-28.