An elevated Thai dive bar where the cocktail list reads like a fine-dining tasting menu and the snacks come on plastic baskets — Merai sits in its own category in the Boston scene. From the team behind Brookline's Mahaniyom, the room at 14 Harvard Street runs on a programme built by co-owner Panupong "Earth" Viriyapongsukij, with builds like the Hojicha Highball — small-batch Irish whiskey, roasted green tea, honey, Topo Chico — and the Wonka's Ticket, layered with brown butter coconut, coffee, and pandan. The food sticks to the dive-bar conceit with taro fries, mussels in red curry butter, and pork belly bao, and the Boston Globe, Boston Magazine, and Time Out have all leaned in. The most fully committed concept-bar opening Boston has produced this decade, and the rare destination room where everything on the menu is under twenty dollars.