That moment when the sun hangs in the sky but no longer burns; the time to prepare and embrace the evening as it approaches – this is the time for an aperitif. For some, it’s a simple moment for a drink or a small bite to stimulate the taste buds. For others, it’s a way of life, indulging in sweet idleness full of pleasures. But what exactly is an aperitif? Where are its roots, and why does this phenomenon remain so relevant today?
What is an Aperitif?
An orange-red sea of drinks, clouds of cigarette smoke, and small café tables covered with plates of olives, salty sticks, cheese pieces, or potato chips. Such clichés are often found in countless descriptions of this unique moment, usually associated with Italy. A more poetic version of this moment can be found in a 1938 issue of La Lettura, where the author describes their tribute to the aperitif. They state that during this time, “for a moment, everything on land and water seems brighter than ever.”
The European Affair
Aperitif drinking is considered a purely European affair, making it difficult to explain this ritual to anyone outside the continent. Many authors have attempted to do so in recent years. Books like “Aperitif: A Spirited Guide to the Drinks, History and Culture of Aperitif” and “Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes” are good examples. Generally, an aperitif is understood as a small alcoholic drink served fifteen to twenty minutes before the start of a meal. Its main purpose is to make the wait for food more pleasant and to stimulate the appetite during the social gathering. The word “aperitif” comes from the Latin term “aperīre,” meaning “to open,” as it was customary in ancient Rome to add wormwood and various herbs to wine to prepare the digestive tract for the pleasures of the upcoming feast.
The Modern Aperitif
A true revolution in aperitif consumption came at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, with Italians and their culture playing a major role. Traditional European vermouths and other bittersweet drinks, such as the iconic Campari, were born during this period. Initially a manifestation of the rustic tradition from the Piedmont region called “merenda sinoira” or simply “merenda,” this Italian daily routine evolved into an afternoon snack with various cold dishes like cheeses and salami, naturally accompanied by a glass of wine.
The introduction of vermouth, often considered the original aperitif, revived the pre-dinner drinking culture. This was not only in Turin but also in fashionable cafés in Rome, Genoa, Florence, Milan, and Venice. By the mid-19th century, this trend had spread significantly to France and other countries. This trend partly emerged from a belief in the beneficial effects of alcoholic beverages, with many liqueurs developing from regional medicinal tinctures. From the mid-19th century, many brands emerged, such as Averna (1868), Bigallet China China Amer (1875), Braulio (1875), Fernet-Branca (1845), Luxardo Fernet Amaro (1889), Montenegro (1885), Ramazzotti (1815), and Santa Maria Al Monte (1892).
Champagne and Cocktails
The early 20th century showed that aperitifs weren’t limited to vermouth or other fortified wines like sherry, madeira, or port. Champagne also found its place as an aperitif, not always served in its pure form. The Champagne cocktail captured the hearts of many aperitif lovers, transitioning smoothly from bar settings to movie screens, symbolizing immense luxury. Alongside champagne, shorter, more intense cocktails like martinis, manhattans, americanos, and later negronis gained popularity.
Bubbles and Modern Preferences
Scientific studies on aperitifs as stimulating drinks indicate that it’s indeed a physiological process. Factors include bitterness, alcohol profile, and the influence of bubbles or sugar on alcohol absorption in the body. Special attention is given to bubbles, which are considered lighter aperitifs. Among these, the spritz has stood out in recent years. This drink originated from Austrian soldiers, traders, and diplomats who, during their stay in northern Italy, diluted local wine with water to suit their palate accustomed to riesling.
Today’s focus on calorie counting and high work demands seemingly favor aperitifs. People meet for a limited number of drinks in a short time. In the daily grind, it’s better to stick to Bond-like elegance than to be swept away by aristocratic whims.
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