Picture this: Mexico, the birthplace of one of the fundamental bases for cocktails. Despite its prominence, there aren’t that many renowned classic tequila cocktails. Even with the recent focus on mezcal, by 2020, according to the Consejo Regulador del Tequila, there were 163 certified distilleries producing 374 million liters of tequila, spread across 1,758 brands. But how much of this production finds its way into cocktails? And which ones are they?
Shift in the Wind
Tequila’s popularity in Europe, where less than twenty percent of the overall production ends up, has been a bit variable. While the United States can’t do without it, and London seemingly never loses its allure, in the Czech Republic, it once dominated orders, particularly in the ’90s. However, the quality of the available options wasn’t the best, leading traditional favorites like rum and whisky to take the forefront, joined later in the early 2000s by gin. Talking about the history of tequila-based drinks, we discover that while the spirit itself dates back several centuries, its acceptance in the cocktail culture came much later compared to other spirits. Consequently, the list of well-known classic tequila-based cocktails remains quite short. However, each drink is iconic in its own right.
The Daisy
Undoubtedly, the most famous tequila cocktail is the Margarita. Its first written mention came in the December 1953 issue of Esquire magazine. “It’s from Mexico, gentlemen, and it’s lovely to look at, exciting and enticing,” read the description, accompanied by a recipe urging the use of 3 cl of tequila, a splash of triple sec, and fresh lime or lemon juice, prepared on crushed ice and served in a glass rimmed with salt. However, the history of this cocktail isn’t straightforward. As far back as 1937, the Café Royal Cocktail Book featured a similar cocktail. The book’s author, the renowned English bartender William Tarling, included the Picador cocktail, consisting of two parts tequila, one part Cointreau, and citrus juice. An even older variation, called the Young Man’s Delight, was found in G. F. Steele’s My New Cocktail Book from 1930. Six years later, readers of the Syracuse Herald could find a drink simply labeled Tequila Daisy. If you’re fluent in English and Spanish, you might have an inkling of where David Wondrich’s thoughts were heading. He connects the origins of the Margarita to a group of drinks called daisies. Daisy” in Spanish translates to “margarita” (a daisy flower). These daisies can be traced back to the second edition of Jerry Thomas’s book from 1867, where they were described as sours made with brandy, whiskey, gin, or rum, sweetened with orange cordial and topped with soda or another sparkling beverage. While prohibition was raging in the north, in Mexico, Americans seemingly swapped traditional brandy for the more exotic tequila, paving the way for a new drink.
Who Picked the Flowers
Numerous contenders lay claim to the invention of the Margarita. One story revolves around the sought-after Mexican resort, Agua Caliente Racetrack, where, in 1944, the alleged creator of the drink, Danny Negrete, worked. Another source credits Negrete for mixing the cocktail in 1936 as a wedding gift for his step-sister Margarita when he was a bartender and manager at the Garci Crespo hotel in Puebla. Yet, another version ties the creation of the drink to the Garci Crespo hotel, suggesting that it was dedicated to Rita Hayworth. Her real name allegedly being Margarita Cansino, she performed as a dancer at Garci Crespo in the early ’30s. Keep the same silver screen star but change the bartender and the year, and you might consider the claim that the drink was first mixed in the ’40s by the famous Spanish bartender Enrique Bastante Gutiérrez.
Another tale from 1938 credits Carlos “Danny” Herrera with creating the first Margarita at his restaurant, Rancho La Gloria, halfway between Tijuana and Rosarito. He crafted it for showgirl Marjorie King, who reportedly couldn’t stand any alcohol except tequila. How did he make it? Tequila, triple sec, and lime juice in a shaker with ice. A significant advocate for this theory was Albert Hernandez, renowned for popularizing the Margarita in San Diego at La Plaza in the late ’40s. He even claimed to have known Herrera, frequently visiting him in Mexico.
Don Carlos Orozco, in October 1941 at Hussong’s Cantina in Ensenada, reportedly used the same proportions of tequila, Damiana herbal liqueur, and lime, serving the drink over ice in a glass with a salt rim. According to this theory, the Margarita was supposed to contain Damiana, not the French orange liqueur. The bartender allegedly chose the Mexican liqueur with aphrodisiacal effects because the drink was intended for the beautiful daughter of the German ambassador. However, many experts lean towards the most credible account of the Margarita’s inception, attributed to Francisco Morales, nicknamed Pancho. This story claims that on July 4, 1942, a lady walked into the Mexican bar Tommy’s Place, requesting a Magnolia cocktail. The bartender, remembering only Cointreau as an ingredient, mixed it with tequila and lime. The result? A completely different flower – the Daisy. He cleverly prepared an answer for any objections by saying that it was a local version of the Magnolia.
Arguably, the most famous Margarita story, spread worldwide through the media, was narrated by the prominent Dallas socialite Margaret Ashford-Sames. Her penchant for a liqueur flavored with bitter orange peel led her, during Christmas 1948, while vacationing with friends in Acapulco, to create a refreshing cocktail. Although her first attempt ended with guests throwing her into the pool, Margaret persisted, perfecting the recipe to three parts tequila, two parts orange liqueur, and one part citrus juice. Her main motivation? Breaking the dull tradition of mainly drinking Bloody Marys at the time. However, in The Complete Book of Spirits, Anthony Dias Blue rebuffs this story, stating that the Jose Cuervo company in the US was already selling Margarita Mix in 1945, branding it as “Margarita: it’s more than a girl’s name!” According to Blue, the drink was first mixed in 1938 in honor of the Mexican showgirl Rita de la Rosa.
So, who’s right? It’s hard to say. However, one thing’s certain: the Margarita remains a beloved flower in the cocktail world, retaining its charm since the ’70s. So much so that a special type of glass was named after it. Additionally, let’s not forget the much-discussed salt rim, which, according to some experts, doesn’t quite pair well with premium tequilas. Maybe, as Margaret Ashford-Sames suggested, a very light salt rim resembling pouted lips is enough.
The Dove
Although the Margarita takes the spotlight, another Mexican classic has gained a dedicated following: the Paloma. Its origin is slightly less shrouded in mystery than that of the Margarita. Created in the mid-20th century, it simply combines tequila, grapefruit soda, and a splash of lime. Less glamorous, perhaps, but this refreshing drink has carved its niche. Interestingly, its popularity in Mexico surpasses that of the Margarita.
Sunrise over Tequila
And then there’s the Tequila Sunrise. As with many cocktails, the history of its creation involves a fair share of anecdotes. One such story links the drink to Bobby Lozoff and Billy Rice, who co-owned the Trident restaurant in Sausalito, California. The duo created it in the early ’70s, and as legend has it, they mixed tequila with crème de cassis and lime juice, creating a sunrise-like effect with grenadine. The drink gained fame when Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones tried it at a private party at the Trident. Lozoff later showcased the Tequila Sunrise at his bar in the South Pacific Resort in Fiji, where it became a hit.
Taste the History
In the end, the beauty of these classic tequila cocktails lies not just in their taste but also in the myriad stories that surround their origins. Whether sipping a Margarita on a warm summer evening or enjoying a Paloma’s effervescence, each drink carries a slice of history within its glass. Cheers to the timeless allure of tequila-based cocktails!
