Brandy is a spirit distilled from wine. The catch is that this definition doesn’t specify whether it comes directly from grapes or already-made wine, which is why brandy includes two notable subcategories—grappa and pisco. Let’s dive deeper into these fascinating spirits.
Grappa: From Humble Beginnings to Luxury Spirit
In the early 1960s, French cuisine still reigned supreme in Europe, if not the world, but culinary enthusiasts were beginning to seek something new. On the other side of the Alps, Italian gastronomy was ready to make its mark. Around this time, grappa began to emerge from the shadows.
Grappa: Cinderella in Murano Robes
Grappa’s story is a true Cinderella tale. It began on the heaps of grape pomace—skins, seeds, and stems left over from winemaking—piled carelessly on winery floors. These scraps were often given to seasonal vineyard workers as a bonus to their modest pay. The workers would take the pomace home, let it ferment, and wait for the traveling distiller to arrive with his copper still. The distiller took a cut of the spirit for himself, selling it at the next village, while the rest stayed in the household, bottled in heavy glass to warm the family through the winter.
My first encounter with grappa happened at a tiny bistro on the southern shore of Lake Garda. The owner, impressed by my appreciation of the figs wrapped in thin, crispy bacon, offered me a taste of something special—a glass of grappa from a bottle that looked like the Rolls-Royce of spirits. He instructed me to first enjoy the fig and bacon, then sip the grappa. It was an unforgettable experience and a perfect illustration of how grappa found its place alongside the finest offerings of Italian cuisine.
Grappa’s Modern Evolution
Grappa’s rise to international recognition wasn’t just about packaging it in Murano glass. Producers began focusing on specific grape varieties, discovering that certain types, such as Riesling and Muscat, are better suited for grappa production due to their aromatic profiles. They also found that pomace from red grapes is ideal for distillation. Grappa from cooler regions of northern Italy, with its preserved acidity, is renowned for its complexity and elegance—qualities that southern producers can only dream of.
A revolution also occurred in how pomace is processed. Initially, it was a mix of everything—skins, seeds, stems. Over time, distillers rejected pomace containing stems, as they added bitterness to the spirit. The real game changer came when distillers began separating pomace by grape variety, leading to the creation of “monovitigno” or single-varietal grappa. The first to embrace this method was Distillerie Nonino in 1967.
Understanding Grappa Labels
When buying grappa, look for key terms on the label to guide your purchase. If the label reads “distillata a bagnomaria,” it indicates the use of a double-boiler still, while “distillata a vapore” refers to steam distillation, a gentler method that preserves the aromatic qualities of the pomace.
Aging terms are also important. By law, grappa must be aged in barrels for at least six months. If it’s aged for an additional six months, the label may include “invecchiata” (aged), “stravecchia” (extra-aged), or “riserva.” However, over-aging can lead to excessive wood influence, dulling the spirit’s natural flavors.
Grappa: The Perfect Digestif
Grappa is a classic digestif, best enjoyed at the end of a meal. If it’s young, aged for just six months, it shines at 8-10°C. Older grappa, particularly those aged in barrels, is best served at 16-18°C. While grappa has struggled to find its place in modern cocktail culture, there’s one traditional drink worth trying—caffè corretto. Either add a splash of grappa to your espresso or, for a more refined experience, pour grappa into the empty coffee cup, swirl, and enjoy the flavors.
Pisco: The South American Contender
Seventy years ago, American cocktail expert David August Embury gave a scathing review of South American pisco: “Brandy from Peru, known as pisco, is something I can’t recommend.” Fortunately, times have changed, and pisco has earned a place in the spotlight. Gary Regan, a renowned bartender, predicted that the pisco sour might one day dethrone the mojito.
While pisco may be related to pomace brandies, such as grappa, there are differences. Peruvian Pisco Verde, the only version made from fermented grape juice, is a nod to the spirit’s origins, while most other varieties result from wine distillation.
Peru and Chile continue to debate the true origin of pisco, much like rival football teams. What we do know is that the first grapevines were brought to South America by Spanish colonists in the 16th century, with Peru’s Ica region quickly emerging as a hub for wine production. The leftover grapes were used by local farmers to distill pisco, with records dating back to 1613.
Not All Pisco Is Created Equal
The differences between Peruvian and Chilean pisco are vast. From the types of grape varieties used to the materials used in distillation, each country brings its own unique flair to pisco production. In Peru, pisco must be aged in neutral vessels for at least three months, while in Chile, pisco is often aged in wooden barrels. Alcohol content varies as well, with Peruvian pisco ranging from 38-48% ABV, while Chilean pisco can reach up to 50%.
When choosing pisco, pay attention to the label. Peruvian pisco comes in four main varieties:
- Puro: Made from a single variety of non-aromatic grapes, often Quebranta, Mollar, or Negra Criolla.
- Aromático: Produced from aromatic grape varieties, such as Muscat, Albilla, Italia, or Torontel.
- Mosto Verde: A nod to traditional pisco production, this style is made from partially fermented grape juice.
- Acholado: A blend of several grape varieties or musts, typically used in cocktails like the Pisco Sour.
The Perfect Pisco Sour Recipe
To make a traditional Pisco Sour, try this recipe:
- 2 fl oz (4cl) pisco preferably Acholado
- 1 fl oz (2 cl) fresh lime or lemon juice
- 1 fl oz (2 cl) simple syrup
- 1/2 fl oz (1-1.5 cl) egg white
- A few dashes of Angostura bitters
Shake all ingredients (except the bitters) with ice, strain into a glass, and carefully add three drops of bitters on top. Enjoy!
